Ava Estell is the Black-owned brand going viral for clearing hyperpigmentation on melanated skin
Ask any person with melanin for their biggest skincare concern, and more often than not, they'll tell you it in one word – hyperpigmentation. In fact according to Google, it's the fourth most searched skin condition in Britain, and those numbers don't seem to be declining.
While we are all searching for answers, this is a concern that can affect melanated people more intensely. However, there are far fewer solutions geared toward dark skin types, specifically. According to a 2023 study 4.5.6 Skin, reported by Aesthetic Medicine, there's a worrying gap in skincare research equity, which favours paler skins, resulting in limited solutions for hyperpigmentation in dark skin types. “The vast priority of the skincare industry (70%) focuses on the main skin concern of lighter phototypes I, II and III, namely anti-ageing. However, that is not necessarily the focus for women of colour. In fact, 90% of the women of colour asked said their top priorities were even skin tone and a healthy glow,” the study says.
That's where Black-owned beauty brand Ava Estell comes in. The brand has gone viral on social media for its incredible consumer results across its body and skincare ranges, and has amassed almost 330,000 followers on Instagram alone. The reviews speak for themselves, with customers claiming to see results after three plus months of use. “No lies told. The hyperpigmentation on the fronts of my legs was awful. Not anymore. Unbelievable!” says one user on Instagram who used the Ultimate Body Care Set. But how does it all work?
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Cosmetic formulator Yaw Okyre, who has a biomedical science background, founded Ava Estell because he saw potential in products he had formulated specifically for his wife who was suffering from hyperpigmentation and eczema. “We met in 2016 and on our first date we discussed the fact that she was experiencing hyperpigmentation and eczema on her arms that made her feel insecure and she was in search of products that were natural and would not bleach or compromise her skin," he told GLAMOUR. "I spent several months reading research papers around the science and solutions to hyperpigmentation and eczema. The products that were created worked amazingly well and I thought maybe she could start a business,” he adds.
Fast forward to October 2020 and Ava Estell launched with Magix Cream and Activating Body Scrub making £10K within the first two weeks of launch. The before and afters from consumers started to break the internet, and do so still today. “Being able to show the customer we are serving the results has really helped us to build trust and also to assure our community that this is a product 'made with them in mind',” Yaw tells GLAMOUR.
Hyperpigmentation is tough to treat, but not impossible. Yaw's advice? “Simplicity is something we encourage and ideally your daily and evening skincare should feature no more than four products.” A gentle approach is key. “Starting with thoroughly cleansed skin is a good starting point. You want skin to be clean so ingredients in the skincare you’re using can work to the best of their ability. That said, skin should never be stripped of its natural oils or in a way that will compromise its barrier,” says Yaw. “We also don’t shy away from actives as these are required to do a lot of the heavy lifting when it comes to certain skincare issues, but we tend to use them in their natural form,” he adds.
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Lastly but importantly: “Follow this with a moisturiser to help keep your skin replenished and finish with an SPF,” Yaw tells us. However, with hyperpigmentation patience really is key. Yaw is quick to remind us that “there’s never going to be one product that instantly alleviates it overnight; not if you do not want to compromise your skin health.”
However, gentle exfoliation is essential. “It helps reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation on a surface level whilst incorporating ingredients such as Liquorice Root Extract and Vitamin E that also help lighten darker spots and reduce the appearance of scars,” Yaw concludes.
Keep scrolling for our selection of Ava Estell hero products to treat your hyperpigmentation – and they're all £10.
Best body cream for hyperpigmentation
Why we love it: The proof is in the name. This cream is formulated in a whipped mousse consistency that glides on the skin like butter. It's 100% vegan and blended with skin loving ingredients like cocoa butter, shea butter, avocado oil and vitamin E oil to help rebalance the skin and alleviate dark marks and blemishes over extended use.
Best body scrub for hyperpigmentation
Why we love it: This gentle physical exfoliant will leave your skin feeling buttery soft straight after your shower. It's powered by a rich blend of grape seed oil, robusta coffee and, rosemary oil for effective cell regeneration on skin prone to pigmentation. A bath and shower hero.
Best face mask for hyperpigmentation
Why we love it: This face mask has excellent anti-microbial properties which fights acne causing bacteria, which can in turn be the cause of post inflamatory hyperpigmentation. It's 100% natural and it helps to calm the inflamed skin and reduce redness and irritation.
Best winter cream for hyperpigmentation
Why we love it: This ultra hydrating body cream is your perfect winter companion as soothes the skin during these dry, crisp months, reduces dryness and locks in moisture. It's formulated with shea butter and tea tree oil which are absorbed into the skin quickly and leave it feeling supple and buttery soft all day long.
Best body cleanser for hyperpigmentation
Why we love it: Although it doesn't sit on your body for long, cleansers should be especially equipped with hard-working ingredients if you want them to help with your hyperpigmentation skin care routine. This one is formulated by a power-combo of rose and vanilla essential oils that not only promote general relaxation, but also nourish and hydrate the skin. Founder and formulator Yaw Okyere says: “Since we include essential oils in our products, we ensure that what is used is proportionate to the carrier oils it's being diluted in.”
