It's no secret that Beth Ditto, former Gossip lead singer-turned-fashion designer, isn't happy with the current offering in body-diverse fashion. And now, in a move to take the issue into her own hands, Beth has launched her first stand-alone, self-titled, plus-size label.
The debut collection is inspired by Ditto's love of vintage and vibrant prints with the key piece being an embroidered, psychadelic print demin jacket (trust us - it's incredible).
Speaking to GLAMOUR, Beth talks us through where she gets her confidence from, why Miss. Piggy is her style icon, and what she thinks of the term "plus-size"...
What made you want to launch your own line in the first place?
I just wanted to do something and make something that I wanted to wear. It was just time, Gossip was over, it was time to take a break. Then we took a break and I just decided I was done. We talked about it forever, ever since I was a kid and I was just like "you know what? There's no better time than now". So we just got it together, me and my friend, [we] just pulled all of our fucking resources together. It's amazing; it's quite the business venture.
What was the starting point?
The jacket! I just knew. I was like I want a denim jacket that has a psychedelic painting on the back. It was the starting point and then it was like: "we know we want this, we know we want that…"
Awesome! So what's your take on the current plus size offering out in fashion?
I think it's better than it ever has been, there's a lot of options for different styles. There is a lot of trendy options. There's a lot of stores that have a plus size section, like Forever 21, H&M, Target has one… There are more options there than when I was younger, like ten years ago, but I still don't think it's quite there yet. There are cooler options and they're younger, but I don't really think they are built to last. I think that's the point: they're here today gone tomorrow.
What's your take on the 'plus size' tag? Some people aren't keen on it…
I know some people don't like it, and I think I understand, but honestly I just don't care that much. I think it's a good point and part of the conversation. [The dislike for the term 'plus-size'] is important to the extent that it's just a person and shouldn't have to be this marginal, niche, after-thought… but I don't care what you call me. I think it's a definite move in the right direction just to co-opt it all - for us just to be one thing.
Who do you envisage wearing your collection?
All kinds of people. I see boys in it, I see ladies in it, I see partiers… I would hope that there are things in there for a girl or a person who had a special event and they could feel like they have something in their closet that could be their go-to. That was something that was missing for me a lot.
How would you describe the overall look of the collection?
Reliable... is that weird?
What are your favourite pieces? You said the denim jacket…
I love the denim jacket. I love the kaftan, I love everything and I would wear all of them in a certain context. Every one of them.
Who are your style heroes?
I love Miss. Piggy - she's always changing with the times. Isn't that funny there is a difference in being trendy and always changing? I think that's Miss. Piggy for you right there. Who else? I love David Bowie - I love him so much!
What do you think the fashion world needs to do better to represent the diversity of female body shapes?
First of all, start making things bigger and considering people and not marginalising them, not shaming them. I mean, there's a lot of things, like age and everything. Stop dressing just one body type over and over again. I don't know what we are going to do but we have to start pushing things to be accessible and durable.
Where do you get your confidence from?
I think punk and feminism. I think [you get confidence] when you are dropped icons who are unconventional, or when you look at things in a different way. It gave me a context outside of what you would see in magazines or on television.
Beth Ditto is launching a plus-size fashion line this February and, to celebrate, she's teamed up with legendary designer and friend Jean Paul Gaultier on a one-off, limited edition T-shirt.
The print features his iconic bullet bra corset design - famously worn by Madonna in the Eighties - and will be available up to size 30. Ditto has hit the catwalk for Gaultier before, so it doesn't come as a huge surprise that they've teamed up again.
"Jean Paul is the most generous, positive person, he truly loves women of all sizes and ages and knows how to make everyone feel gorgeous," said Ditto. "I love that this shirt is funny and chic at the same time, like all the best people!"
But back to Ditto's own brand - although she has worked with high street names on plus-size ranges before, this is the first time she has launched her own label. The aesthetic of the brand will be inspired by Ditto's love of vintage and vibrant prints. There will also be a focus on silks, rayons and embroidery, that the singer believes are often missing from plus-size lines.
"This line is by us, for us, period," she said. "It's my lifelong dream to get to design real clothes for big people, clothes that are comfortable and cool!"
