Back-to-back gel or acrylic manicures can take their toll on our nails. To get them back on track, we asked the experts how to strengthen nails. The good news is that a few small lifestyle changes can restore damaged digits back to their former glory – it just takes some time and consistency.
“Just like we deep-condition and treat dry, over-processed hair, it is crucial to take care of the nail and cuticle,” says Dana Stern, MD, a board-certified dermatologist who specialises in nail health. Dr. Stern’s advice? “Take a break from enhancements,” as research has found that regular gel manicures can lead to nail thinning. Another top tip? Keep your natural nails short. “Short nails are less prone to breakage and catching.”
Of course, weak nails don’t just arise from having gel, shellac or acrylic overlays. According to Dr. Stern, there are two categories of nail damage. “The first category are the factors that are difficult to control like genetics, ageing, and certain medical conditions,” she explains, and so some of this damage is simply unavoidable. The second, and more common category, consists of environmental factors that are easier to control.
Nails in need of some TLC? Read on for more tips and tricks on how to strengthen nails as well as the key products to add to your hand care routine, pronto.
Wear gloves when working with water
“Nails are extremely absorptive of water, even more so than skin,” says Dr. Stern. “When the nail absorbs water, it puts tremendous strain on the nail cells, or onychocytes, which can lead to peeling, breakage, and weakening.” She advises wearing gloves when washing dishes, working with water, or doing manual labor.
This is the reason why many manicurists will often advise against having bare nails. By applying a layer of nail varnish, you protect the nails from water absorption - meaning they're less likely to peel or split. “Just don't leave the colour on for too long,” warns Dr. Stern.
Use glass nail files
While typical cardboard emery boards tend to be the file of choice due to their affordability and how quickly they work, they're actually not the best choice when it comes to nail health.
“Emery boards cause microscopic openings and splits at the tip of the nail that lead to peeling and cracks,” Dr. Stern explains. “I prefer glass or crystal nail files over cardboard emery boards because they don’t cause microscopic openings or tears and instead create a clean edge at the nail.”
Opt for non-acetone polish remover
“In terms of chemical exposure, polish remover is a big one: Acetone tends to be especially drying to the nail and can make brittle nails worse,” Dr. Stern says, noting that it's best to seek out conditioning formulas that contain ingredients like soy and/or have added moisturising benefits from oils. Try the Cutex Non-Acetone Nail Polish Remover which is enriched with coconut oil, or the Manicurist Green Nail Polish Remover.
Avoid nail products with formaldehyde
If typical nail-strengthening products sound too good to be true, that's unfortunately because many of them are. “Many so-called nail strengtheners still contain formaldehyde or formalin, ingredients that are very damaging to the nail,” warns Dr. Stern. “Formaldehyde will initially harden the nail; however, with time, the nail becomes paradoxically brittle and is at risk of lifting or separating off of the nail bed.”
Formaldehyde can also cause severe allergic reactions at the surrounding nail folds, she adds, prompting the skin to become extremely irritated, swollen and painful. Translation? When shopping for nail products, opt for those formulated without formaldehyde.
Moisturise with sunflower oil
Keep your cuticles and nail moisturised, but always look for products that are formulated with scientifically proven ingredients, says Dr. Stern. “When looking for a nail and cuticle moisturiser look for products that are rich in phospholipids, which have been shown to increase nail flexibility, thus combatting brittleness,” she says. “Massage the product into your cuticles several times daily.”
You'll find phospholipids in products containing sunflower oil and Brazil nut oil: According to Dr. Stern, both oils are especially rich in phospholipids.
Treat nails with glycolic acid
Finally, be sure to seek out nail treatments containing glycolic acid. “Glycolic acid has been shown to rejuvenate brittle nails,” confirms Dr. Stern. “Just like we do peels for the skin to remove the superficial layers of dead cells, this strategy is also applicable to the nail,” Stern says.
Once the damaged layer of nail cells is removed, any product you apply after will be better absorbed - helping to hydrate and fortify the nail. A “peel for the nails” can be be done either in a dermatologist’s office or at home, Stern says.
